BuildSideways

GT86 seat time build

Cheap and reliable. Learn to link corners without spending money you will regret.

  • BaselineFix it before you break it $870–$2,640
  • Get it slidingBoth rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit $1,265–$2,770
  • ControlAngle, grip, and keeping it cool $120–$300
  • Power and reliabilityPower last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it -
  • CompetitionSafety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs -
Parts totalplus $1,590–$4,320 a season in tires, fluids and entry fees $2,255–$5,710
Open and edit this plan About the GT86

Parts only. The car itself is another $12,000–$26,000, and a season of running it is $1,590–$4,320 on top.

What this plan assumes about a GT86

The GT86 is the easiest car on this list to start with and the most expensive way to make 200 horsepower. It came from the factory with a limited-slip differential, a low centre of gravity, excellent balance, a torsen diff, and a chassis designed by people who wanted it to oversteer. Parts availability is excellent, it is new enough that Phase 0 is short, and the aftermarket for drift specifically is strong. The two honest downsides are price - this is a modern car and it costs modern money - and the engine, which has enough power to drift but not enough to make it easy, and a mid-range torque dip that you feel.

At 2,750 to 2,900 lb, this sits in the middle of the weight range we cover, so consumables come to $265–$720 an event and setup knowledge from the rest of the segment broadly transfers.

Parts availability scores 5 out of 5 here. Everything in this plan is obtainable without international freight, which matters more than it sounds: a failure costs you an evening rather than a month. This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and steering racks, knuckles, angle kits, master cylinders and pedal boxes are frequently not interchangeable between them - confirm which side a part is for before ordering.

What this chassis adds that a generic plan would miss

  • Price (phase 0). The most expensive entry on this list relative to what it gives you in power. You are paying for reliability, parts availability and a short Phase 0 - which is a real thing to pay for, but be clear that is what you are buying.
  • Early-car fuel pump recall history (phase 0). Some early cars were covered by fuel pump recalls. Check whether the work was done on any car you are considering, because the symptom is a stall.
  • Oil consumption and oil level sensitivity (phase 0). The FA20 is sensitive to oil level and some cars consume oil. Check the level and the history, and watch it during Phase 0 rather than assuming it is fine.

What this level is for, and what it deliberately leaves out

This is the plan for learning, and it is a complete build rather than a cut-down one. Phases 0 and 1 plus the alignment: baseline repairs, a locked differential, a bucket seat and a correctly mounted harness, a helmet, a mounted extinguisher, budget coilovers and cheap rear tires.

What it leaves out is angle, power and most of phase 2 - on purpose. An angle kit buys recovery room, and recovery room is only useful once you know where the limit is. Spinning constantly is not a sign you need more lock; it is a sign you need more seat time, and seat time is the cheapest item on this list.

The picks here are the cheap ones throughout, which is the technically correct answer and not a compromise. A welded differential is completely predictable. Budget coilovers teach you everything a rebuildable set would. And a less grippy rear tire makes the car easier to break traction on while costing less per set.

The plan

Solid rows are required at this goal level. Dotted rows are optional. An amber edge means a warning fired on that slot.

0 Baseline

$870–$2,640

Fix it before you break it. Why this phase comes here.

  • Chassis and rust inspection You, a torch and a jack - Do it yourself verified $0
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Local shop Pre-purchase or pre-build inspectionmid$100–$250general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Full fluid service Parts only - Full fluid service, DIY general $120–$280
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Local shop Full fluid service, shopmid$350–$650general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Cooling system baseline OEM or OEM-equivalent - Cap, hoses, thermostat and pressure test verified $90–$260
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    OEM-equivalent Replacement radiator, factory specificationmid$160–$420general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Brakes back to standard Street-performance pads - Pads, rotors and a full bleed verified $180–$480
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Street-performance pads + braided lines Pads, rotors, braided lines and a bleedmid$300–$700verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Bushings and mounts Polyurethane - Polyurethane bushing set community $180–$450
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Spherical / solid Spherical or solid bushing setpremium$500–$1,400community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Steering and suspension wear items OEM-equivalent - Tie rods, ends and ball joints verified $150–$420
  • Wheel bearings and hubs OEM-equivalent - Wheel bearings, as needed general $80–$400
  • Ignition and basic tune-up OEM-equivalent - Plugs, coils or leads, filter general $70–$350

1 Get it sliding

$1,265–$2,770

Both rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit. Why this phase comes here.

  • Locking differential Local shop - Welded differential verified $100–$300

    GT86: Already done from the factory on every car. The only chassis here where Phase 1's most important item comes free - verify it works and move on.

    2 other options in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Factory or aftermarket, used Used clutch-type LSDmid$400–$800verified
    Aftermarket, new New two-way LSDpremium$1,100–$2,200community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    A welded diff on a car you also drive on the road community

    Context

    A welded differential locks both rear wheels permanently. It works, it is cheap, and plenty of people daily drive one. It also chirps and skips the inside tire in car parks, wears rear tires faster on the street, and is noticeably less pleasant in the wet. None of that is a reason not to do it - it is a reason to know before you do it.

    If the car is also your transport, price a used clutch-type LSD against the welded option. It is the single biggest quality-of-life difference in Phase 1.

    Source: Texas Drift Academy, Welded vs LSD vs Open Diff for Drifting - an LSD is more durable, quieter and smoother than a welded diff (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Helmet Check your series' accepted standards - Entry-level certified helmet general $150–$350
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Check your series' accepted standards Mid-range certified helmetmid$400–$800general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fire extinguisher Motorsport-rated - Hand-held extinguisher with mount verified $50–$160
  • Bucket seat and mount Budget fixed-back - Fixed-back bucket seat and side mounts verified $220–$500
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    FIA-certified shell Certified competition seat and mountspremium$700–$1,600general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Harness Motorsport harness - Five-point harness verified $120–$300
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    FIA-certified Certified six-point harnesspremium$280–$650general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Coilovers ISR Performance - ISR Performance coilovers community $600–$900
    3 other options in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    BC Racing BC Racing BR Seriesbudget$1,000–$1,300community
    Feal Suspension Feal Suspension coiloversmid$1,400–$2,100community
    Fortune Auto Fortune Auto coiloverspremium$1,600–$3,200community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general

    Context

    Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.

    Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.

    Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Steering wheel and hub optional Aftermarket - Aftermarket wheel and hub adapter verified $90–$300
  • Rear wheels Steel / factory - Steel wheels or your factory set verified $0–$200
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Used aftermarket Used alloy wheels, correct offsetmid$250–$700general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Rear tires Whatever is in your size - Part-worn or take-off rears verified $25–$60
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Budget new Cheapest new tire in your sizemid$60–$110general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

2 Control

$120–$300

Angle, grip, and keeping it cool. Why this phase comes here.

  • Angle kit or modified knuckles optional Specialist fabricator - Specialist or custom-fabricated kit general $1,200–$3,500

    GT86: Well supported. Prioritise alignment and geometry over maximum lock on a car this well balanced.

    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Wisefab Wisefab angle kitpremium$2,000–$2,600verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Roll centre and bumpsteer correction optional Aftermarket - Roll centre adjusters and corrected tie rod ends community $150–$450
  • Hydraulic handbrake optional Aftermarket - Inline hydraulic handbrake community $160–$420
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket + second caliper Dedicated-circuit hydraulic handbrakepremium$550–$1,400community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Front tires optional 200TW performance - 200-treadwear front tires community $120–$220
  • Drift alignment Local shop with a drift setup sheet - Drift alignment verified $120–$300
  • Cooling upgrade optional Aluminium performance core - Larger-core radiator, fan and shroud verified $320–$800
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aluminium core + thermostatic oil cooler Radiator, fan, shroud and oil coolerpremium$700–$1,600general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Rear brake capacity optional Aftermarket or a bigger factory caliper - Larger rear caliper and rotor general $250–$800

3 Power and reliability

$0

Power last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it. Why this phase comes here.

  • Clutch optional Aftermarket - Uprated organic or sprung-hub clutch general $400–$900
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Twin-plate clutch and flywheelpremium$1,100–$2,400general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fuel system optional Aftermarket - Pump and injectors for target power general $350–$950
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Pump, injectors and surge tankpremium$800–$2,000general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Intake and exhaust optional Aftermarket - Intake and cat-back or turbo-back exhaust general $400–$1,200
  • Turbo, supercharger or engine swap optional Swap kit plus engine - Engine swap general $4,000–$12,000

    GT86: The most common reason people modify this car. Do fuel and cooling properly first - the FA20 is not forgiving of a lean condition.

  • Engine management and tune optional ECU plus tuner - Standalone or reflash plus dyno time verified $700–$2,500
  • Driveshaft, axles and diff mounting optional Aftermarket - Uprated axles, driveshaft and diff mount reinforcement community $600–$2,200
  • Oil and gearbox cooling optional Aftermarket - Oil cooler and gearbox or diff cooler general $450–$1,500

4 Competition

$0

Safety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs. Why this phase comes here.

  • Roll cage or roll bar optional Bolt-in - Bolt-in roll bar with harness bar general $400–$1,200
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Fabricator Welded multi-point cage to series specificationpremium$2,000–$6,000general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fire suppression system optional Motorsport system - Plumbed-in fire suppression general $450–$1,400
  • Quick release hub optional Aftermarket - Quick release hub general $120–$450
  • Spares and trailer kit optional Your own kit - Event spares and tools community $300–$1,200
  • Gauges and data optional Aftermarket - Water temp, oil pressure and oil temp gauges verified $150–$500
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket digital dash Digital dash with loggingpremium$700–$2,500general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

Prices are market ranges with the date they were checked, not live quotes. We do not have a live price feed, so we show you a range and send you to the retailer for the real number rather than pretending to know it.

What a season costs to run

The number no other parts list gives you. $265–$720 an event, $1,590–$4,320 across six.

In a documented year-one drift budget, tires, consumables and entry fees came to about a fifth of total spend. A parts list that stops at the parts is telling you about four fifths of what you are going to pay. Work out your own tire bill.

Pre-event checklist, generated from this build

Not a generic list - these lines exist because of what is in your plan and which chassis it is on.

Before you load

  • Check and top up engine oil, coolant, brake fluid and diff oil
    Drifting heats all four past anything street driving does.
  • Torque the wheels, then re-torque them after your first session
    Wheels get swapped repeatedly through the day, usually in a hurry.

Drivetrain

  • Check the differential mount and the axle boots for splits
    A locked diff puts every shock load straight through the mount and the axles.

Cooling

  • Pressure-test the cap and check every hose by hand while cold
    Overheating is the most common reason a day ends early.

GT86 specifics

  • Check: Price
    The most expensive entry on this list relative to what it gives you in power. You are paying for reliability, parts availability and a short Phase 0 - which is a real thing to pay for, but be clear that is what you are buying.
  • Check: The mid-range torque dip
    The FA20's torque curve has a well-known dip in the middle of the rev range, and you feel it when you need power to hold an angle. It is the main reason so many of these end up supercharged or turbocharged.
  • Check: Early-car fuel pump recall history
    Some early cars were covered by fuel pump recalls. Check whether the work was done on any car you are considering, because the symptom is a stall.
  • Check: Rear differential mounting at power
    Once the car makes more than factory power through a locked or clutch diff, the rear mounting points and the driveshaft become the things to watch. Standard Phase 3 territory.

Tech inspection

  • Helmet in date, extinguisher mounted and in reach, battery secure, no loose items in the cabin
    These are the things tech actually turns people away for.

Pack

  • Rear tires: two pairs minimum, mounted on spare wheels if you have them
    Running out of rears is the most common reason people leave early.

A printable version, and per-event tracking of what you actually spent, are Pro features. The checklist itself is free.

Worth knowing

A welded diff on a car you also drive on the road community

Context

A welded differential locks both rear wheels permanently. It works, it is cheap, and plenty of people daily drive one. It also chirps and skips the inside tire in car parks, wears rear tires faster on the street, and is noticeably less pleasant in the wet. None of that is a reason not to do it - it is a reason to know before you do it.

If the car is also your transport, price a used clutch-type LSD against the welded option. It is the single biggest quality-of-life difference in Phase 1.

Source: Texas Drift Academy, Welded vs LSD vs Open Diff for Drifting - an LSD is more durable, quieter and smoother than a welded diff (checked 2026-10-06)

Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general

Context

Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.

Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.

Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)

The same chassis, different ambition

How we make money, plainly. Some parts links earn us a commission. Parts with no affiliate option are still listed, with a plain link, so the plan is never shaped by what pays us. We do not take payment for placement, and the budget pick is labelled as the budget pick even when the expensive one pays more. Full disclosure.

Questions

What does this GT86 plan cost in total?

$2,255–$5,710 in parts, plus $1,590–$4,320 for a six-event season of tires, fluids, pads, fuel and entry fees. That is $3,845–$10,030 for a first season, on top of $12,000–$26,000 for the car.

Can I change the parts?

Yes - every slot shows its alternatives with the honest tradeoffs, and in the planner you can swap any pick, add your own part at your own price, or mark a slot as something you already own so it drops out of the total. The warnings re-evaluate as you change things, because they run against the contents of the build.

Do I have to do the phases in order?

You do not have to do anything, but the order is the product. You spend your first event in the paddock instead of on track. The classic version of this story is a fresh set of coilovers bolted to tired bushings and a radiator that was already marginal, then a cooked head gasket on the third run. You did not save money by skipping Phase 0; you moved the money to a worse place and lost the weekend.

Why is there a warning on a plan you recommended?

There are no blockers on this plan. The warnings and notes below flag things that are true about this combination and worth knowing before you order - a welded diff being harder work in the wet, for instance - rather than mistakes to fix.