GT86 drift build
Toyota GT86 / Subaru BRZ / Scion FR-S. 2012-2021.
- Years
- 2012-2021
- Weight
- 2,750-2,900 lb
- Steering
- LHD and RHD
- Used price
- $12,000–$26,000 (checked 2026-10-06)
- As a first build
- 1/5 - easy first build
- Parts availability
- 5/5 - everything is on a shelf
The honest read on a GT86
The GT86 is the easiest car on this list to start with and the most expensive way to make 200 horsepower. It came from the factory with a limited-slip differential, a low centre of gravity, excellent balance, a torsen diff, and a chassis designed by people who wanted it to oversteer. Parts availability is excellent, it is new enough that Phase 0 is short, and the aftermarket for drift specifically is strong. The two honest downsides are price - this is a modern car and it costs modern money - and the engine, which has enough power to drift but not enough to make it easy, and a mid-range torque dip that you feel.
Why it drifts
It was designed to. Low, light, balanced, with a factory limited-slip differential and steering that tells you everything. Phase 1's biggest decision is already made for you, which no other chassis here can claim as standard. The chassis takes angle kits well and the aftermarket covers it properly, including Wisefab. For someone who wants to learn without first learning to be a mechanic, this is the obvious choice.
Steering side, imports and region
Sold new worldwide in both configurations with no import process, and recent enough to buy with a full service history. The three badges are mechanically the same car for build purposes, and most parts are listed for all of them - but check, because some body and interior parts differ between Toyota and Subaru versions and between model years.
A GT86 plan, in the right order
Seat-time goal, every phase priced. $12,000–$26,000 for the car is not included.
- BaselineFix it before you break it $870–$2,640
- Get it slidingBoth rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit $1,265–$2,770
- ControlAngle, grip, and keeping it cool $120–$300
- Power and reliabilityPower last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it -
- CompetitionSafety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs -
| Goal | Parts | Consumables per season | First season all in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seat time | $2,255–$5,710 | $1,590–$4,320 | $3,845–$10,030 |
| Street and local events | $6,450–$15,100 | $2,112–$6,426 | $8,562–$21,526 |
| Competition | $16,550–$44,730 | $2,112–$6,426 | $18,662–$51,156 |
What goes wrong on a GT86
5 known weak points, each tagged with how much we actually know and which phase it belongs in.
Price verified phase 0
The most expensive entry on this list relative to what it gives you in power. You are paying for reliability, parts availability and a short Phase 0 - which is a real thing to pay for, but be clear that is what you are buying.
The mid-range torque dip community phase 3
The FA20's torque curve has a well-known dip in the middle of the rev range, and you feel it when you need power to hold an angle. It is the main reason so many of these end up supercharged or turbocharged.
Early-car fuel pump recall history community phase 0
Some early cars were covered by fuel pump recalls. Check whether the work was done on any car you are considering, because the symptom is a stall.
Rear differential mounting at power community phase 3
Once the car makes more than factory power through a locked or clutch diff, the rear mounting points and the driveshaft become the things to watch. Standard Phase 3 territory.
Oil consumption and oil level sensitivity community phase 0
The FA20 is sensitive to oil level and some cars consume oil. Check the level and the history, and watch it during Phase 0 rather than assuming it is fine.
The full buying checklist, with what each problem costs to fix
Engines
| Code | What it is | Stock | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| FA20 | 2.0 naturally aspirated flat four | 200 hp | Low centre of gravity, famously flat torque curve with a dip in the middle. Adequate rather than generous. |
Swap options
| Swap | What it buys you | Rough cost | Difficulty | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Supercharger or turbo on the FA20 | Forced induction on the factory engine. | $4,000–$9,000 | 3/5 | Well-supported kits. Cooling and fuel need doing properly. |
| LS-series V8 | A popular and well-documented swap on this chassis. | $8,000–$16,000 | 4/5 | |
| 2JZ-GTE | Done frequently enough to be well supported. | $8,000–$17,000 | 4/5 |
Power comes last in the plan for a reason. The grassroots and Pro-Am field mostly runs 200 to 350 hp and is not held back by it - see why phase 3 is phase 3.
Angle kits and wheel fitment
Well supported, including Wisefab, and the chassis responds well. Because the car is relatively light and already well balanced, the usual advice applies with extra force: get the Phase 0 steering work and the alignment right before chasing maximum lock, because a well-aligned moderate-angle 86 is a better car than a badly aligned high-angle one. Available in left-hand drive locally, so no steering-side ordering issues.
Offset window: front 15mm to 40mm in 8.5-9.5in widths; rear 10mm to 35mm in 9-10in. An angle kit moves the usable front window out by about 10mm.
5x100, which is a different pattern from both the Nissan and BMW cars here. Arches are tighter than the Z cars. These windows commonly clear on a stock-bodied car and are a starting point only - measure at full lock with the suspension loaded.
Questions
How much does a GT86 drift build cost?
A seat-time build on a GT86 comes to $2,255–$5,710 in parts, on top of $12,000–$26,000 for the car itself. Add $1,590–$4,320 a season for tires, fluids and entry fees, which is the figure most parts lists leave out. The full breakdown by phase is on the build cost page.
Is the GT86 a good first drift car?
We rate it 1 out of 5 for difficulty as a first build and 5 out of 5 for parts availability. The GT86 is the easiest car on this list to start with and the most expensive way to make 200 horsepower. It came from the factory with a limited-slip differential, a low centre of gravity, excellent balance, a torsen diff, and a chassis designed by people who wanted it to oversteer.
What should I check before buying a GT86?
Confirm the limited-slip differential is working is the first thing. It should be standard. Tight circle on full lock and feel for both wheels driving. If it is not working you have an unexpected Phase 1 cost. There are 6 checks in the full buying guide, each with what it costs to put right if you find it.
What wheel offset works on a GT86?
Front offsets of roughly 15mm to 40mm commonly clear on a standard-bodied car, in 8.5 to 9.5 inch widths. Fitting an angle kit moves that window out by around 10mm. These are starting points, not guarantees - measure at full lock with the suspension loaded.
Sources
- Drift HQ chassis catalogue lists GT86/GR86 among supported platforms - checked 2026-10-06
- FT-86 Part Picker demonstrates the depth of the platform-specific parts catalogue - checked 2026-10-06
Prices are market ranges with the date they were checked, not live quotes. We do not have a live price feed, so we show you a range and send you to the retailer for the real number rather than pretending to know it.