BuildSideways

S13 competition build

Judged runs, long days, and the ability to fix it between heats.

  • BaselineFix it before you break it $1,710–$4,590
  • Get it slidingBoth rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit $4,530–$9,720
  • ControlAngle, grip, and keeping it cool $3,290–$8,770
  • Power and reliabilityPower last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it $3,650–$10,600
  • CompetitionSafety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs $3,570–$11,550
Parts totalplus $2,112–$6,426 a season in tires, fluids and entry fees $16,750–$45,230
Open and edit this plan About the S13

Parts only. The car itself is another $4,000–$18,000, and a season of running it is $2,112–$6,426 on top.

What this plan assumes about a S13

The S13 is the reason the aftermarket for drift exists in the shape it does. It is light, the front suspension geometry responds well to modification, and there is more documented knowledge about making one slide than about any other car on this list. That popularity is also the problem: the cheap ones were all used hard a decade ago, and what is left on the market has usually been drifted, crashed, repaired and sold several times over. You are not buying a used car, you are buying a used drift car, and the chassis inspection in Phase 0 matters more here than on almost anything else.

At 2,600 to 2,800 lb, this sits in the middle of the weight range we cover, so consumables come to $352–$1,071 an event and setup knowledge from the rest of the segment broadly transfers.

Parts availability scores 5 out of 5 here. Everything in this plan is obtainable without international freight, which matters more than it sounds: a failure costs you an evening rather than a month. This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and steering racks, knuckles, angle kits, master cylinders and pedal boxes are frequently not interchangeable between them - confirm which side a part is for before ordering.

What this chassis adds that a generic plan would miss

  • Rear strut towers, frame rails and the area around the diff mount (phase 0). This is the one that ends builds. Check inside the boot at the strut towers, along the rails under the car, and around where the differential mounts to the chassis. Surface rust on a floor pan is cosmetic; cracking or scaling at a suspension or diff mounting point is structural, and on a locked-diff car it spreads. Walk away rather than negotiate.
  • SR20DET oil pump drive and coolant passages (phase 0). The SR has a long-standing reputation for oil pump drive failures and for coolant passage issues when it is run hard with a cooling system that is merely adequate. Neither is a reason to avoid the engine, but both are reasons to do the Phase 0 cooling baseline properly and to fit oil pressure and temperature gauges before you add power.
  • Power steering rack and lines (phase 0). Leaking racks and hard, cracked high-pressure lines are near-universal at this age. Fix it in Phase 0, because an angle kit in Phase 2 asks the rack to work at extremes it has never seen, and a rack that is already weeping will not survive that.
  • Subframe and control arm bushings (phase 0). Original rubber is thirty-plus years old and deflects under load, which means the alignment you pay for in Phase 2 will not stay where you set it. Doing bushings before coilovers and before the alignment means paying for one alignment instead of two.
  • Differential mount and axles once power goes up (phase 3). A locked diff sends every shock load into the mount and the axles. On an S13 the mount area is also a known rust spot, so the two problems compound. Reinforcing the mount is normal practice on a car making real power, and a spare axle belongs in the trailer.
  • Everything has already been modified badly once (phase 0). Because every S13 has been through this, expect to find welded-in bodged repairs, mismatched suspension, a hacked loom, and an angle kit someone fabricated in a shed. Budget time to undo other people's work. This is the single biggest hidden cost of a cheap S-chassis.

What this level is for, and why the spares matter as much as the parts

Competition changes what the build is optimised for. It stops being about the best single run and starts being about completing every run of a long day, on a judged line, with twenty minutes between heats to fix whatever just broke. That is why phase 4 contains a spares kit alongside the safety equipment: what eliminates people is almost never speed, it is a part they could have carried.

Phase 3 is here too, and the order inside it is the order things fail in - clutch, then fuel, then air and tune, then drivetrain and cooling. Buy the clutch for the power you are aiming at rather than the power you have, because the gearbox coming out twice is a weekend you did not need to spend.

Check your series' rulebook before buying anything in phase 4. Requirements vary by organiser and by region, certifications expire on paper, and a seat or harness that is out of date will fail technical inspection no matter how good the hardware is. The picks here are the premium tier throughout, because consistency over a long day is the actual requirement.

Read these first

Evaluated against this build, not against the chassis. They change as you change the plan.

An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified

Worth knowing first

More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.

Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.

Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)

The plan

Solid rows are required at this goal level. Dotted rows are optional. An amber edge means a warning fired on that slot.

0 Baseline

$1,710–$4,590

Fix it before you break it. Why this phase comes here.

  • Chassis and rust inspection Local shop - Pre-purchase or pre-build inspection general $100–$250
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    You, a torch and a jack Do it yourselfbudget$0verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Full fluid service Local shop - Full fluid service, shop general $350–$650
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Parts only Full fluid service, DIYbudget$120–$280general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Cooling system baseline OEM-equivalent - Replacement radiator, factory specification general $160–$420
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    OEM or OEM-equivalent Cap, hoses, thermostat and pressure testbudget$90–$260verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Brakes back to standard Street-performance pads + braided lines - Pads, rotors, braided lines and a bleed verified $300–$700
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Street-performance pads Pads, rotors and a full bleedbudget$180–$480verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    Check which side of the car the part is for general

    Context

    This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.

    Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.

    Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Bushings and mounts Spherical / solid - Spherical or solid bushing set community $500–$1,400
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Polyurethane Polyurethane bushing setbudget$180–$450community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Steering and suspension wear items OEM-equivalent - Tie rods, ends and ball joints verified $150–$420

    S13: Do this before the angle kit, not after. The rack and lines are a known weak point at this age.

    Check which side of the car the part is for general

    Context

    This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.

    Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.

    Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Wheel bearings and hubs OEM-equivalent - Wheel bearings, as needed general $80–$400
  • Ignition and basic tune-up OEM-equivalent - Plugs, coils or leads, filter general $70–$350

1 Get it sliding

$4,530–$9,720

Both rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit. Why this phase comes here.

  • Locking differential Aftermarket, new - New two-way LSD community $1,100–$2,200

    S13: The factory open or viscous diff is the single thing standing between this car and drifting. Welding is $100-300 at a shop. Used clutch LSDs are plentiful for this chassis, which makes the upgrade path unusually cheap.

    2 other options in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Local shop Welded differentialbudget$100–$300verified
    Factory or aftermarket, used Used clutch-type LSDmid$400–$800verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Helmet Check your series' accepted standards - Mid-range certified helmet general $400–$800
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Check your series' accepted standards Entry-level certified helmetbudget$150–$350general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fire extinguisher Motorsport-rated - Hand-held extinguisher with mount verified $50–$160
  • Bucket seat and mount FIA-certified shell - Certified competition seat and mounts general $700–$1,600
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Budget fixed-back Fixed-back bucket seat and side mountsbudget$220–$500verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Harness FIA-certified - Certified six-point harness general $280–$650
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Motorsport harness Five-point harnessbudget$120–$300verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Coilovers Fortune Auto - Fortune Auto coilovers community $1,600–$3,200
    3 other options in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    ISR Performance ISR Performance coiloversbudget$600–$900community
    BC Racing BC Racing BR Seriesbudget$1,000–$1,300community
    Feal Suspension Feal Suspension coiloversmid$1,400–$2,100community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general

    Context

    Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.

    Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.

    Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Steering wheel and hub Aftermarket - Aftermarket wheel and hub adapter verified $90–$300
  • Rear wheels Used aftermarket - Used alloy wheels, correct offset general $250–$700
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Steel / factory Steel wheels or your factory setbudget$0–$200verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified

    Worth knowing first

    More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.

    Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.

    Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Rear tires Budget new - Cheapest new tire in your size general $60–$110
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Whatever is in your size Part-worn or take-off rearsbudget$25–$60verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

2 Control

$3,290–$8,770

Angle, grip, and keeping it cool. Why this phase comes here.

  • Angle kit or modified knuckles Specialist fabricator - Specialist or custom-fabricated kit general $1,200–$3,500

    S13: More off-the-shelf options than any other chassis here. Confirm RHD or LHD before ordering.

    4 other options in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    DIY or local fabricator Cut and welded knucklesbudget$150–$600community
    Parts Shop Max Parts Shop Max angle kitmid$700–$1,500community
    GKTech GKTech angle kitmid$900–$1,800community
    Wisefab Wisefab angle kitpremium$2,000–$2,600verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

    An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified

    Worth knowing first

    More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.

    Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.

    Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)

    Check which side of the car the part is for general

    Context

    This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.

    Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.

    Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Roll centre and bumpsteer correction Aftermarket - Roll centre adjusters and corrected tie rod ends community $150–$450
  • Hydraulic handbrake Aftermarket + second caliper - Dedicated-circuit hydraulic handbrake community $550–$1,400
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Inline hydraulic handbrakebudget$160–$420community

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Front tires 200TW performance - 200-treadwear front tires community $120–$220

    An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified

    Worth knowing first

    More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.

    Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.

    Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)

  • Drift alignment Local shop with a drift setup sheet - Drift alignment verified $120–$300
  • Cooling upgrade Aluminium core + thermostatic oil cooler - Radiator, fan, shroud and oil cooler general $700–$1,600
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aluminium performance core Larger-core radiator, fan and shroudmid$320–$800verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Rear brake capacity Aftermarket bracket kit - Dual-caliper rear setup community $450–$1,300
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket or a bigger factory caliper Larger rear caliper and rotormid$250–$800general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

3 Power and reliability

$3,650–$10,600

Power last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it. Why this phase comes here.

  • Clutch Aftermarket - Twin-plate clutch and flywheel general $1,100–$2,400
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Uprated organic or sprung-hub clutchmid$400–$900general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fuel system Aftermarket - Pump, injectors and surge tank general $800–$2,000
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Pump and injectors for target powermid$350–$950general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Intake and exhaust optional Aftermarket - Intake and cat-back or turbo-back exhaust general $400–$1,200
  • Turbo, supercharger or engine swap optional Swap kit plus engine - Engine swap general $4,000–$12,000
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket turbo kit Turbo upgrade on the engine you havemid$1,500–$4,500general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Engine management and tune ECU plus tuner - Standalone or reflash plus dyno time verified $700–$2,500
  • Driveshaft, axles and diff mounting Aftermarket - Uprated axles, driveshaft and diff mount reinforcement community $600–$2,200

    S13: Diff mount reinforcement is standard practice on an S13 making real power, and the mount area is also a rust spot - check both at once.

  • Oil and gearbox cooling Aftermarket - Oil cooler and gearbox or diff cooler general $450–$1,500

4 Competition

$3,570–$11,550

Safety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs. Why this phase comes here.

  • Roll cage or roll bar Fabricator - Welded multi-point cage to series specification general $2,000–$6,000
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Bolt-in Bolt-in roll bar with harness barbudget$400–$1,200general

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

  • Fire suppression system Motorsport system - Plumbed-in fire suppression general $450–$1,400
  • Quick release hub Aftermarket - Quick release hub general $120–$450
  • Spares and trailer kit Your own kit - Event spares and tools community $300–$1,200
  • Gauges and data Aftermarket digital dash - Digital dash with logging general $700–$2,500
    1 other option in this slot
    OptionTierPriceConfidence
    Aftermarket Water temp, oil pressure and oil temp gaugesbudget$150–$500verified

    Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.

Prices are market ranges with the date they were checked, not live quotes. We do not have a live price feed, so we show you a range and send you to the retailer for the real number rather than pretending to know it.

What a season costs to run

The number no other parts list gives you. $352–$1,071 an event, $2,112–$6,426 across six.

In a documented year-one drift budget, tires, consumables and entry fees came to about a fifth of total spend. A parts list that stops at the parts is telling you about four fifths of what you are going to pay. Work out your own tire bill.

Pre-event checklist, generated from this build

Not a generic list - these lines exist because of what is in your plan and which chassis it is on.

Before you load

  • Check and top up engine oil, coolant, brake fluid and diff oil
    Drifting heats all four past anything street driving does.
  • Torque the wheels, then re-torque them after your first session
    Wheels get swapped repeatedly through the day, usually in a hurry.

Drivetrain

  • Check the differential mount and the axle boots for splits
    A locked diff puts every shock load straight through the mount and the axles.

Steering

  • Cycle the steering to full lock both ways and look for witness marks on the arms, liners and tires
    More lock means the wheel sweeps a larger arc; contact shows up as rub marks first.
  • Check tie rod ends and the rack for play
    High-lock geometry loads these far harder than stock, and play ruins the alignment you paid for.

Brakes

  • Bleed the handbrake circuit and check the lever for a firm stop
    The hydro circuit shares fluid with brakes you will be cooking all day.

Cooling

  • Pressure-test the cap and check every hose by hand while cold
    Overheating is the most common reason a day ends early.

S13 specifics

  • Check: Rear strut towers, frame rails and the area around the diff mount
    This is the one that ends builds. Check inside the boot at the strut towers, along the rails under the car, and around where the differential mounts to the chassis. Surface rust on a floor pan is cosmetic; cracking or scaling at a suspension or diff mounting point is structural, and on a locked-diff car it spreads. Walk away rather than negotiate.
  • Check: SR20DET oil pump drive and coolant passages
    The SR has a long-standing reputation for oil pump drive failures and for coolant passage issues when it is run hard with a cooling system that is merely adequate. Neither is a reason to avoid the engine, but both are reasons to do the Phase 0 cooling baseline properly and to fit oil pressure and temperature gauges before you add power.
  • Check: Power steering rack and lines
    Leaking racks and hard, cracked high-pressure lines are near-universal at this age. Fix it in Phase 0, because an angle kit in Phase 2 asks the rack to work at extremes it has never seen, and a rack that is already weeping will not survive that.
  • Check: Subframe and control arm bushings
    Original rubber is thirty-plus years old and deflects under load, which means the alignment you pay for in Phase 2 will not stay where you set it. Doing bushings before coilovers and before the alignment means paying for one alignment instead of two.

Tech inspection

  • Helmet in date, extinguisher mounted and in reach, battery secure, no loose items in the cabin
    These are the things tech actually turns people away for.

Pack

  • Rear tires: two pairs minimum, mounted on spare wheels if you have them
    Running out of rears is the most common reason people leave early.

A printable version, and per-event tracking of what you actually spent, are Pro features. The checklist itself is free.

Worth knowing

Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general

Context

Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.

Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.

Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)

Check which side of the car the part is for general

Context

This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.

Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.

Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)

The same chassis, different ambition

How we make money, plainly. Some parts links earn us a commission. Parts with no affiliate option are still listed, with a plain link, so the plan is never shaped by what pays us. We do not take payment for placement, and the budget pick is labelled as the budget pick even when the expensive one pays more. Full disclosure.

Questions

What does this S13 plan cost in total?

$16,750–$45,230 in parts, plus $2,112–$6,426 for a six-event season of tires, fluids, pads, fuel and entry fees. That is $18,862–$51,656 for a first season, on top of $4,000–$18,000 for the car.

Can I change the parts?

Yes - every slot shows its alternatives with the honest tradeoffs, and in the planner you can swap any pick, add your own part at your own price, or mark a slot as something you already own so it drops out of the total. The warnings re-evaluate as you change things, because they run against the contents of the build.

Do I have to do the phases in order?

You do not have to do anything, but the order is the product. You spend your first event in the paddock instead of on track. The classic version of this story is a fresh set of coilovers bolted to tired bushings and a radiator that was already marginal, then a cooked head gasket on the third run. You did not save money by skipping Phase 0; you moved the money to a worse place and lost the weekend.

Why is there a warning on a plan you recommended?

There are no blockers on this plan. The warnings and notes below flag things that are true about this combination and worth knowing before you order - a welded diff being harder work in the wet, for instance - rather than mistakes to fix.