JZX90 competition build
Judged runs, long days, and the ability to fix it between heats.
- BaselineFix it before you break it $1,710–$4,590
- Get it slidingBoth rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit $4,530–$9,720
- ControlAngle, grip, and keeping it cool $3,090–$8,270
- Power and reliabilityPower last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it $3,650–$10,600
- CompetitionSafety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs $3,570–$11,550
Parts only. The car itself is another $9,000–$25,000, and a season of running it is $2,112–$6,426 on top.
What this plan assumes about a JZX90
The JZX90 is the cheapest honest route to a torquey straight-six drift car, and the one most people arrive at after getting bored of fighting a four-cylinder for power. The 1JZ-GTE makes its power low and wide, which makes holding an angle substantially easier than it is in a peaky four, and the chassis is a comfortable four-door saloon that happens to be extremely good at going sideways. The trade-off is weight: at around 3,200 to 3,450 lb it is several hundred pounds heavier than an S-chassis, and it asks more of its brakes, tires and cooling as a result. Everything in your consumables budget goes up.
At 3,200 to 3,450 lb, this sits in the middle of the weight range we cover, so consumables come to $352–$1,071 an event and setup knowledge from the rest of the segment broadly transfers.
Parts availability scores 3 out of 5 here. Some items in this plan will mean freight and lead times, so order ahead of when you need them - a part on a boat is a weekend you have already paid an entry fee for. This chassis is RHD-only, which at least removes the most common ordering mistake on the Japan-market platforms.
What this chassis adds that a generic plan would miss
- Weight, and everything downstream of it (phase 2). Several hundred pounds more than an S-chassis means more heat into the brakes, more tire wear, a bigger cooling requirement and higher spring rates. Setup sheets written for a 2,700 lb car are wrong here. Budget more for consumables than an S-chassis build.
- Twin-turbo plumbing complexity (phase 0). The factory sequential twin-turbo system is intricate and its vacuum actuators and lines perish. Most builds convert to a single turbo partly because it is more powerful and largely because it removes a maze of thirty-year-old plumbing. If you keep the twins, expect to chase boost control faults.
- Rust in the usual Japanese-market places (phase 0). Rear arches, sills, strut towers, and around the rear subframe. Many of these cars came from snow-region or coastal use. Check as thoroughly as you would an S13.
- Automatic to manual conversion (phase 1). A large share of these cars were automatics. Converting is well documented but it is a real job: gearbox, pedal box, driveshaft, clutch hydraulics, shifter, loom and ECU considerations. Price it before you buy an auto car cheaply.
- Differential and axles at power (phase 3). A torquey six through a locked diff is hard on axles and on the diff mount, and more so because the car is heavy. This is a chassis where the Phase 3 drivetrain reinforcement item is genuinely necessary rather than optional.
- Body and interior parts are scarce (phase 0). Mechanical parts are shared across the Toyota range and are easy. Bumpers, lights, glass and interior trim are Japan-only and increasingly hard to find. Assume any body damage is expensive.
What this level is for, and why the spares matter as much as the parts
Competition changes what the build is optimised for. It stops being about the best single run and starts being about completing every run of a long day, on a judged line, with twenty minutes between heats to fix whatever just broke. That is why phase 4 contains a spares kit alongside the safety equipment: what eliminates people is almost never speed, it is a part they could have carried.
Phase 3 is here too, and the order inside it is the order things fail in - clutch, then fuel, then air and tune, then drivetrain and cooling. Buy the clutch for the power you are aiming at rather than the power you have, because the gearbox coming out twice is a weekend you did not need to spend.
Check your series' rulebook before buying anything in phase 4. Requirements vary by organiser and by region, certifications expire on paper, and a seat or harness that is out of date will fail technical inspection no matter how good the hardware is. The picks here are the premium tier throughout, because consistency over a long day is the actual requirement.
Read these first
Evaluated against this build, not against the chassis. They change as you change the plan.
An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified
Worth knowing first
More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.
Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.
Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)
The plan
Solid rows are required at this goal level. Dotted rows are optional. An amber edge means a warning fired on that slot.
0 Baseline
$1,710–$4,590Fix it before you break it. Why this phase comes here.
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Chassis and rust inspection
Local shop - Pre-purchase or pre-build inspection general
$100–$250
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence You, a torch and a jack Do it yourself budget $0 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Full fluid service
Local shop - Full fluid service, shop general
$350–$650
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Parts only Full fluid service, DIY budget $120–$280 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Cooling system baseline
OEM-equivalent - Replacement radiator, factory specification general
$160–$420
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence OEM or OEM-equivalent Cap, hoses, thermostat and pressure test budget $90–$260 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Brakes back to standard
Street-performance pads + braided lines - Pads, rotors, braided lines and a bleed verified
$300–$700
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Street-performance pads Pads, rotors and a full bleed budget $180–$480 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
Check which side of the car the part is for general
Context
This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.
Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.
Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)
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Bushings and mounts
Spherical / solid - Spherical or solid bushing set community
$500–$1,400
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Polyurethane Polyurethane bushing set budget $180–$450 community Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Steering and suspension wear items
OEM-equivalent - Tie rods, ends and ball joints verified
$150–$420
Check which side of the car the part is for general
Context
This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.
Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.
Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)
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Wheel bearings and hubs
OEM-equivalent - Wheel bearings, as needed general
$80–$400
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Ignition and basic tune-up
OEM-equivalent - Plugs, coils or leads, filter general
$70–$350
1 Get it sliding
$4,530–$9,720Both rear wheels, one speed, somewhere to sit. Why this phase comes here.
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Locking differential
Aftermarket, new - New two-way LSD community
$1,100–$2,200
JZX90: Tourer V cars often had a factory LSD; check whether it still works rather than assuming. Welding remains the cheap route.
2 other options in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Local shop Welded differential budget $100–$300 verified Factory or aftermarket, used Used clutch-type LSD mid $400–$800 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Helmet
Check your series' accepted standards - Mid-range certified helmet general
$400–$800
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Check your series' accepted standards Entry-level certified helmet budget $150–$350 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Fire extinguisher
Motorsport-rated - Hand-held extinguisher with mount verified
$50–$160
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Bucket seat and mount
FIA-certified shell - Certified competition seat and mounts general
$700–$1,600
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Budget fixed-back Fixed-back bucket seat and side mounts budget $220–$500 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Harness
FIA-certified - Certified six-point harness general
$280–$650
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Motorsport harness Five-point harness budget $120–$300 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Coilovers
Fortune Auto - Fortune Auto coilovers community
$1,600–$3,200
JZX90: Spring rates from an S-chassis setup sheet will be too soft. Specify rates for the actual weight.
3 other options in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence ISR Performance ISR Performance coilovers budget $600–$900 community BC Racing BC Racing BR Series budget $1,000–$1,300 community Feal Suspension Feal Suspension coilovers mid $1,400–$2,100 community Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general
Context
Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.
Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.
Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)
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Steering wheel and hub
Aftermarket - Aftermarket wheel and hub adapter verified
$90–$300
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Rear wheels
Used aftermarket - Used alloy wheels, correct offset general
$250–$700
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Steel / factory Steel wheels or your factory set budget $0–$200 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified
Worth knowing first
More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.
Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.
Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)
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Rear tires
Budget new - Cheapest new tire in your size general
$60–$110
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Whatever is in your size Part-worn or take-off rears budget $25–$60 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
2 Control
$3,090–$8,270Angle, grip, and keeping it cool. Why this phase comes here.
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Angle kit or modified knuckles
Specialist fabricator - Specialist or custom-fabricated kit general
$1,200–$3,500
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence DIY or local fabricator Cut and welded knuckles budget $150–$600 community Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified
Worth knowing first
More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.
Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.
Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)
Check which side of the car the part is for general
Context
This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.
Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.
Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)
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Roll centre and bumpsteer correction
Aftermarket - Roll centre adjusters and corrected tie rod ends community
$150–$450
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Hydraulic handbrake
Aftermarket + second caliper - Dedicated-circuit hydraulic handbrake community
$550–$1,400
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aftermarket Inline hydraulic handbrake budget $160–$420 community Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Front tires
200TW performance - 200-treadwear front tires community
$120–$220
An angle kit changes which wheel offsets will clear verified
Worth knowing first
More steering lock swings the front wheel through a much larger arc, so an offset that clears fine at factory lock can foul the control arm, the tie rod or the inner arch at full lock. Published angle-kit guidance is blunt about this: large steering angle is not an advantage if the wheel rubs the body, the tie rod works at extreme angles, or the car behaves differently turning left and right. Forum reports of wheels contacting control arms at full lock on already-modified cars are common.
Check the offset window on this chassis page before you buy wheels or front tires, and expect to need a lower offset or a spacer than you ran stock. If you hear metallic contact, feel variable steering resistance, or see witness marks, stop and diagnose before driving it again.
Source: Manda Custom, Angle Kits - Selection and Operation in Drift (checked 2026-10-06); Driftworks forum, RX7 FC steering angle wheel rub (checked 2026-10-06)
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Drift alignment
Local shop with a drift setup sheet - Drift alignment verified
$120–$300
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Cooling upgrade
Aluminium core + thermostatic oil cooler - Radiator, fan, shroud and oil cooler general
$700–$1,600
JZX90: Treat this as required, not optional. A heavy car with a turbo six generates more heat than an S-chassis and the factory system is thirty years old.
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aluminium performance core Larger-core radiator, fan and shroud mid $320–$800 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Rear brake capacity
Aftermarket or a bigger factory caliper - Larger rear caliper and rotor general
$250–$800
3 Power and reliability
$3,650–$10,600Power last, and only as fast as the drivetrain can take it. Why this phase comes here.
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Clutch
Aftermarket - Twin-plate clutch and flywheel general
$1,100–$2,400
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aftermarket Uprated organic or sprung-hub clutch mid $400–$900 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Fuel system
Aftermarket - Pump, injectors and surge tank general
$800–$2,000
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aftermarket Pump and injectors for target power mid $350–$950 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Intake and exhaust optional
Aftermarket - Intake and cat-back or turbo-back exhaust general
$400–$1,200
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Turbo, supercharger or engine swap optional
Swap kit plus engine - Engine swap general
$4,000–$12,000
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aftermarket turbo kit Turbo upgrade on the engine you have mid $1,500–$4,500 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Engine management and tune
ECU plus tuner - Standalone or reflash plus dyno time verified
$700–$2,500
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Driveshaft, axles and diff mounting
Aftermarket - Uprated axles, driveshaft and diff mount reinforcement community
$600–$2,200
JZX90: Genuinely necessary on this chassis at power. Torque plus weight plus a locked diff finds the axles.
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Oil and gearbox cooling
Aftermarket - Oil cooler and gearbox or diff cooler general
$450–$1,500
4 Competition
$3,570–$11,550Safety, spares, and being able to fix it between runs. Why this phase comes here.
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Roll cage or roll bar
Fabricator - Welded multi-point cage to series specification general
$2,000–$6,000
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Bolt-in Bolt-in roll bar with harness bar budget $400–$1,200 general Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
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Fire suppression system
Motorsport system - Plumbed-in fire suppression general
$450–$1,400
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Quick release hub
Aftermarket - Quick release hub general
$120–$450
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Spares and trailer kit
Your own kit - Event spares and tools community
$300–$1,200
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Gauges and data
Aftermarket digital dash - Digital dash with logging general
$700–$2,500
1 other option in this slot
Option Tier Price Confidence Aftermarket Water temp, oil pressure and oil temp gauges budget $150–$500 verified Pros, cons and retailers for every option are in the planner, and the component guides go into the tradeoffs properly.
Prices are market ranges with the date they were checked, not live quotes. We do not have a live price feed, so we show you a range and send you to the retailer for the real number rather than pretending to know it.
What a season costs to run
The number no other parts list gives you. $352–$1,071 an event, $2,112–$6,426 across six.
In a documented year-one drift budget, tires, consumables and entry fees came to about a fifth of total spend. A parts list that stops at the parts is telling you about four fifths of what you are going to pay. Work out your own tire bill.
Pre-event checklist, generated from this build
Not a generic list - these lines exist because of what is in your plan and which chassis it is on.
Before you load
- Check and top up engine oil, coolant, brake fluid and diff oil
Drifting heats all four past anything street driving does. - Torque the wheels, then re-torque them after your first session
Wheels get swapped repeatedly through the day, usually in a hurry.
Drivetrain
- Check the differential mount and the axle boots for splits
A locked diff puts every shock load straight through the mount and the axles.
Steering
- Cycle the steering to full lock both ways and look for witness marks on the arms, liners and tires
More lock means the wheel sweeps a larger arc; contact shows up as rub marks first. - Check tie rod ends and the rack for play
High-lock geometry loads these far harder than stock, and play ruins the alignment you paid for.
Brakes
- Bleed the handbrake circuit and check the lever for a firm stop
The hydro circuit shares fluid with brakes you will be cooking all day.
Cooling
- Pressure-test the cap and check every hose by hand while cold
Overheating is the most common reason a day ends early.
JZX90 specifics
- Check: Weight, and everything downstream of it
Several hundred pounds more than an S-chassis means more heat into the brakes, more tire wear, a bigger cooling requirement and higher spring rates. Setup sheets written for a 2,700 lb car are wrong here. Budget more for consumables than an S-chassis build. - Check: Twin-turbo plumbing complexity
The factory sequential twin-turbo system is intricate and its vacuum actuators and lines perish. Most builds convert to a single turbo partly because it is more powerful and largely because it removes a maze of thirty-year-old plumbing. If you keep the twins, expect to chase boost control faults. - Check: Rust in the usual Japanese-market places
Rear arches, sills, strut towers, and around the rear subframe. Many of these cars came from snow-region or coastal use. Check as thoroughly as you would an S13. - Check: Automatic to manual conversion
A large share of these cars were automatics. Converting is well documented but it is a real job: gearbox, pedal box, driveshaft, clutch hydraulics, shifter, loom and ECU considerations. Price it before you buy an auto car cheaply.
Tech inspection
- Helmet in date, extinguisher mounted and in reach, battery secure, no loose items in the cabin
These are the things tech actually turns people away for.
Pack
- Rear tires: two pairs minimum, mounted on spare wheels if you have them
Running out of rears is the most common reason people leave early.
A printable version, and per-event tracking of what you actually spent, are Pro features. The checklist itself is free.
Worth knowing
Spring rate is the coilover decision that matters general
Context
Brand gets argued about; rate is what changes how the car behaves. Rate needs to suit the car's weight, how much front grip you are running, and the surface. A rate chosen for a grippy 200-treadwear front tire is too stiff for the budget tire you will be learning on, and a rate chosen for a smooth circuit is wrong for a bumpy paddock course.
Pick the rate for the weight and the tires you will actually run first, and buy a rebuildable or revalvable coilover if you expect the car to change. This is also why the coilover item sits after the bushings - old rubber makes any rate feel vague.
Source: Slideways, Ultimate Drift Guide - single versus dual adjustable coilovers, spring rates and damping as the key decisions (checked 2026-10-06)
Check which side of the car the part is for general
Context
This chassis exists in both right and left hand drive, and some parts are not interchangeable between them - steering racks, knuckles and angle kits, master cylinders, pedal boxes, dashes and some brake lines. Parts listed for the Japan-market car do not always fit the US or EU car, and mid-year production changes catch people out even within one market.
Confirm the steering side and the market the part was made for before ordering, especially from overseas where returning it costs more than the part. The chassis page lists the known differences.
Source: Industry reporting on fitment errors: VIN decoders miss regional variants and mid-year production changes (checked 2026-10-06)
The same chassis, different ambition
- Seat time$2,255–$5,710
- Street and local events$5,400–$12,200
- Full cost breakdown
- Buying guide
- All 75 plans
How we make money, plainly. Some parts links earn us a commission. Parts with no affiliate option are still listed, with a plain link, so the plan is never shaped by what pays us. We do not take payment for placement, and the budget pick is labelled as the budget pick even when the expensive one pays more. Full disclosure.
Questions
What does this JZX90 plan cost in total?
$16,550–$44,730 in parts, plus $2,112–$6,426 for a six-event season of tires, fluids, pads, fuel and entry fees. That is $18,662–$51,156 for a first season, on top of $9,000–$25,000 for the car.
Can I change the parts?
Yes - every slot shows its alternatives with the honest tradeoffs, and in the planner you can swap any pick, add your own part at your own price, or mark a slot as something you already own so it drops out of the total. The warnings re-evaluate as you change things, because they run against the contents of the build.
Do I have to do the phases in order?
You do not have to do anything, but the order is the product. You spend your first event in the paddock instead of on track. The classic version of this story is a fresh set of coilovers bolted to tired bushings and a radiator that was already marginal, then a cooked head gasket on the third run. You did not save money by skipping Phase 0; you moved the money to a worse place and lost the weekend.
Why is there a warning on a plan you recommended?
There are no blockers on this plan. The warnings and notes below flag things that are true about this combination and worth knowing before you order - a welded diff being harder work in the wet, for instance - rather than mistakes to fix.