BuildSideways

What to check before buying a 300ZX

3 checks, in the order to do them, with what each problem costs to put right if you find it. Asking prices were $6,000–$22,000 when we checked on 2026-10-06.

Negotiate, then budget for it

Not dealbreakers, but each one is money you will spend in phase 0 whether you planned to or not.

  • Naturally aspirated or twin turbo, and be honest about the maintenance A non-turbo car with a planned swap is often the more sensible drift purchase than a tired twin-turbo. -
  • Cooling system and head gasket history A heavy car with a V6 and a cramped bay. Any overheating history matters. $500–$4,000
  • Rust at the usual places and around the rear subframe Thorough check, especially on Japanese imports. $800–$5,000

The right-hand column is what the fix costs, as a range. Solid rows are the ones that should stop you; dotted rows are negotiating points.

Why this chassis goes wrong where it does

Weight verified

The heaviest car here. Brakes, tires, cooling and spring rates all have to be specified for it, and consumables per event are the highest on the list. This is the defining constraint.

Twin-turbo engine bay serviceability community

Access on the VG30DETT is genuinely poor and routine jobs take far longer than they would on anything else here. Labour hours - yours or a shop's - are a real cost on this car.

HICAS rear steering on some cars community

Usually locked out or deleted for drift. Cheap to do but it is a job, and a faulty system makes the car feel odd.

Steering side, imports and paperwork

Sold new in the US in left-hand drive and in Japan in right-hand drive, so there is no import process for most buyers. Twin-turbo cars are notoriously labour-intensive to service because of how tightly packed the engine bay is - factor labour hours into everything.

This matters more than it sounds. Industry reporting on parts returns names regional variants and mid-year production changes as a leading cause of wrong-fitment orders, and steering racks, knuckles, angle kits, master cylinders and pedal boxes are frequently not interchangeable between left and right hand drive.

Bought one? Start here

Phase 0 is the chassis inspection you just did, plus fluids, cooling, brakes, bushings and steering wear. It is the cheapest phase and the one that protects everything after it.

Related

Questions

What is the one thing to check on a 300ZX?

Naturally aspirated or twin turbo, and be honest about the maintenance. A non-turbo car with a planned swap is often the more sensible drift purchase than a tired twin-turbo.

What is the most expensive thing that can be wrong?

Rust at the usual places and around the rear subframe, at $800–$5,000. Thorough check, especially on Japanese imports.

How much should I pay for a 300ZX?

$6,000–$22,000 was the asking range when we checked on 2026-10-06. Where you land in it depends almost entirely on the structural condition - and a cheap car with a problem from the blockers list below is not cheap.